After kitchen fires, furnace puff-backs, or protein-heavy combustion, you’re left with more than just dust. You're dealing with greasy, acidic residues that cling to surfaces and trap odor deep in the pores of drywall, metal, and contents. And if you don’t break that film down properly? You risk sealing in the stench and wasting hours trying to paint over surfaces that aren’t ready.

In this weekly how-to, powered by KnowHow, we walk through how and when to use fire restoration degreasers to dissolve the oily films that traditional cleaners just can’t touch. From understanding the chemistry to choosing the right product and applying it safely, this guide gives your team the knowledge they need to strip away stubborn soot and prep for sealing the right way.

1. Understand the Chemistry Behind Fire Degreasers

Not all soot is powdery. Greasy, protein-based, or plastic-derived residues chemically bond to surfaces and require more than just “strong soap.” Effective fire degreasers are engineered with a specific blend of ingredients designed to dismantle these complex contaminants:

• Alkaline Builders (pH 10–13): Convert (saponify) greasy, fatty soils so they can be rinsed away.
• Solvents (alcohols, citrus, glycol ethers): Dissolve waxy or polymerized residues that water alone can’t lift.
• Surfactants & Anti-Redeposition Agents: Loosen soot from surfaces and suspend it in solution to prevent smearing.
• Sequestrants / Chelators: Bind minerals that can cause dulling or streaks on cleaned surfaces. 

This chemistry makes all the difference in reducing dwell time, eliminating odors, and prepping the surface for sealing or painting.

2. Apply Degreasers the Right Way

Start with Dry Soot Removal

Always vacuum with a HEPA unit or wipe down surfaces using chemical (dry-cleaning) sponges first. Skipping this step pushes dry soot deeper and reduces degreaser effectiveness.

Pre-Test Before You Commit

Apply the degreaser to a hidden test area, especially on soft plastics, unsealed wood, or delicate metals that may etch or discolor at high pH.

Mix & Apply

• Follow label instructions (typically 1:4 to 1:16 dilution).
• Apply using a low-pressure sprayer or microfiber cloth to prevent aerosolizing soot.
• Work top-to-bottom to avoid drip stains and recontamination. 

Dwell, Agitate, Rinse

• Let the solution dwell for about 10 minutes (or as directed).
• Agitate with a soft- to medium-bristle brush — aggressive scrubbing can drive soot into paint pores.
• Rinse with warm water or an alkaline rinse extractor. Always catch runoff to protect adjacent materials. 

Neutralize if Needed

If the surface finishes above pH 10, follow up with a mild acidic rinse (like diluted vinegar) or pH-neutralizer. This brings the surface back to a pH of 6–8 — safe for deodorizing, sealing, or painting.

Finish with Odor Control

Only after the degreaser is fully rinsed and the pH is neutral should you apply oxidizers or encapsulating sealers. Without degreasing, those products never truly reach the surface.

3. Best Practices for Fire Degreasing

• Never Let it Dry: Dried alkaline cleaners can lock in soot and leave streaks. Keep the surface wet until you rinse.
• Watch the Temperature: Warm solution (around 110°F / 43°C) speeds up chemical reactions, but can damage vinyl or soft plastics.
• Use PPE: At minimum, wear N95 masks, chemical-resistant gloves, and eye protection. Many degreasers contain glycol ethers and caustics.
• Capture Your Rinse Water: Oily runoff may be classified as regulated waste. Use containment berms and follow local disposal laws.
• Test Before Sealing: Don’t apply odor encapsulants or primers until pH test strips read below 9.
   

4. Choosing the Right Type of Degreaser

Not all fire degreasers are built the same, and choosing the wrong one can cost you hours in labor, or worse, damage the surface you're trying to restore. Here's what to look for when selecting a degreaser for fire residue cleanup:

High-Alkaline Degreasers (pH 11–13)

Best for: Heavy soot buildup on hard, water-safe surfaces like painted drywall, paneling, and masonry.

• These formulations are designed to cut through thick, greasy, or polymerized fire residues.
• Often include powerful builders and solvents that break down oily contaminants fast.
• Use with caution on sensitive materials — always pre-test. 

Moderate-Alkaline Degreasers (pH 9–11)

Best for: Delicate finishes, lighter soot, or situations where extended dwell time is possible.

• Tend to use “green” or milder chemistry with a greater emphasis on surfactants over solvents.
• Effective when allowed to dwell, making them ideal for soft contents or lightly affected areas.
• Safer on surfaces like vinyl, painted wood, or plastics prone to etching or warping. 

Surfactant Systems with Cationic Components

Best for: Capturing fine particulate soot on vertical or porous surfaces.

• Some degreasers include surfactants with a mild positive charge that attracts negatively charged soot particles.
• Helps suspend particles in solution so they don’t resettle or smear during rinsing.

For best results, match the product’s chemistry to the conditions on-site — and always follow with pH testing and appropriate neutralization before sealing.

Cut Through the Grease — with Help from KnowHow

Fire restoration is already demanding. But with the right chemistry and a team that knows when and how to use it,  you can restore faster, safer, and with far better results.

KnowHow helps you patch the gaps in your training and documentation, so your crew doesn’t just “wing it” with chemistry. From degreasing walkthroughs on the job-site to safety best practices, KnowHow puts the answers in their hands, on demand wherever they are, and in their preferred language.

Click to download this template or book a demo with KnowHow to see how we make jobsite knowledge easy to access and even easier to follow.